St. Martin’s Route – Saint Martin of Tours Route
Cultural Routes of Europe and Croatia
The Council of Europe launched the Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe programme in 1987. Its goals are to discover and showcase Europe’s rich and diverse shared cultural heritage, foster a better understanding of European cultural identity, and connect people and places within a shared cultural space.
Cultural routes cover a wide array of fields, ranging from archaeology, architecture, and landscapes to religious influences, and from gastronomy and intangible heritage to prominent figures in European art, music, and literature.
The programme encourages educational and cultural exchange. By enriching the cultural tourism offer, it uncovers less frequented and lesser-known destinations, fostering social and economic development, as well as cultural and sustainable tourism.
Since the Council of Europe proposed the first cultural route in 1987—the Santiago de Compostela Pilgrim Route—48 Cultural Routes of the Council of Europe have been certified to date.
A total of 21 cultural routes pass through the Republic of Croatia, recognizing the country as a destination with a rich cultural heritage. Through various themes, the programme raises awareness of European and Croatian culture, encouraging citizens to reflect on their own heritage. Furthermore, by incorporating local projects, it enables self-sustainability and creates cultural capital. This places Croatia at the very forefront of promoting its immovable, movable, and intangible heritage.
The Route and the Footstep of Saint Martin
One of these cultural routes is the St. Martin’s Route, which spans over 5,000 km across more than 10 European countries. The main feature of this route is the Footstep of St. Martin, a work by the French sculptor Michel Audiard from Tours. The Footstep is placed on sacred or cultural sites dedicated to Saint Martin, and several hundred have been installed across Europe to date.
Martin’s life journey reflects a broad European dimension. It began in Hungary, where he was born around 316 AD in present-day Szombathely, and continued in Italy, where he trained as a Roman soldier in Pavia and embraced Christianity. His path then led him to France and Germany, where he distinguished himself as a soldier—not with a sword that kills, but with a sword used to divide his cloak to clothe a poor man in Amiens, and a sword that brought peace among enemies in Worms. During his monastic life and long service as the Bishop of Tours (near which he died in 397 AD), Martin traveled across 4th-century Europe, spreading not only Gospel values but also the core ideas of sharing and tolerance.
The book The Life of Saint Martin by Sulpicius Severus, translated from Latin by theologian Stjepan Kušar, greatly contributes to the overall development of European Martinian traditions in our country. Thanks to this translation, Martin is brought closer to us as an individual exceptionally sensitive to the misery of others, who went on to become the first non-martyred saint.
The Footsteps of the Saint Route (Via Sancti Martini) offers a journey through Europe based on four major European Martinian routes:
The first connects Szombathely (Hungary), Martin’s birthplace, and Candes-Saint-Martin, a village near Tours (France) where the saint died, passing through Pavia (Italy), where Martin grew up and was educated, and ending in Tours, where he served as bishop and where his tomb is located.
The second leads from Szombathely to Tours via Trier (Germany), a city where Martin also spent some time.
The remaining two routes connect the cities of Utrecht (Netherlands) and Zaragoza (Spain) with Tours (France).
The Via Sancti Martini is a walking and cycling route developed individually at the national level by each participating country. Both local and European Martinian paths do more than just connect relevant sites; they promote the tangible and intangible cultural heritage along the route, as well as its unique ecological features.
While Sulpicius Severus’s biography of Martin does not fully chart the saint’s movements across modern-day Croatian territory, numerous Martinian toponyms and diverse customs bear witness to an ancient Croatian tradition of venerating this saint. Consequently, Croatia is included in the Martinian cultural route as the easternmost European region where the tradition of celebrating St. Martin—locally known as Martinje—has survived and remains vibrant today.
Alongside Croatia’s rich tangible Martinian heritage, its intangible heritage deserves special attention due to its diversity and permanence, highlighting the need for more systematic research. In June 2019, under the title Croatian Traditions of Celebrating St. Martin the Bishop, this heritage was officially entered into the Register of Cultural Property of the Republic of Croatia – List of Protected Cultural Property (Z-7341).
The St. Martin Cultural Centre – Croatia is a cultural and scientific association founded in Zagreb in 2006. It is a member of the European Network of St. Martin Cultural Centres, which connects all such centers across Europe. The Croatian Centre aims to research, preserve, and promote Croatian Martinian heritage within the context of the European Cultural Itinerary.
In 2013, during the Croatian presidency of the European Network of St. Martin Cultural Centres (now the European Federation), the St. Martin Cultural Centre – Croatia hosted representatives from the seven centers of the time in Zagreb. They organized the scientific conference "Along the Paths of European Intangible Heritage in the 21st Century: Saint Martin, a Symbol of Sharing." The conference proceedings were published in 2016 to mark the 1700th anniversary of Martin’s birth.
New activities are continually encouraged to revive and reevaluate the Martinian heritage. Through their unique local characteristics, these initiatives help shape community cultural identities centered around sharing—the fundamental premise of the European St. Martin Cultural Itinerary.
To date, 29 Footsteps of St. Martin have been installed in Croatia:
The first was placed in 2007 next to a ruined church on Martin Breg in Dugo Selo, near the eastern entrance to Zagreb. Another was installed south of Zagreb in Šćitarjevo (2014).
North of Zagreb toward Međimurje, footsteps can be found in Slani Potok (Gornja Stubica, 2016), Breznički Hum (2018), Bojačno (Zagorska Sela, 2021), Varaždinske Toplice (2016), Donja Voća (2017), Martijanec (2015), and Sveti Martin na Muri (2016).
Moving toward the eastern part of the country, footsteps are located in Kalnik (2016), Virje (2008), Velika Trnovitica (2012), Lovčić (2014), Bošnjaci (2020), Prkovci (2020), Privlaka (2020), Svinjarevci (2017), and Beli Manastir (2018).
Along the northern Adriatic, in addition to three in Istria—Tar-Vabriga (2011), Ližnjan (2015), and Vrsar (2023)—footsteps are located in Mali Lošinj (2015) and Povljana on the island of Pag (2024). Near Split, they are found in Vranjic (2013) and Podstrana (2019), as well as in Donje Selo on the island of Šolta (2010), Sumartin on Brač (2011), Kotišina (Makarska, 2023), and Žrnovo on Korčula (2021).
The milestone 30th footstep is designated for the Church of St. Martin in the center of Zagreb, located in Vlaška Street, while the 31st will mark the Chapel of Saint Martin in Podsused, at the western entrance to Zagreb.
The Chapel of Saint Martin in Podsused
The Chapel of St. Martin in Podsused is one of the oldest surviving sacred structures in Zagreb and a core pillar of the local community’s identity. It is believed to have been built in the 10th century, and its existence is documented in the records of the Zagreb Diocese from the early 13th century. Architecturally, it belongs to the Romanesque period, though a major renovation in 1899 introduced certain Historicist features.
Due to its cultural, historical, architectural, and contextual value, the chapel is registered in the Republic of Croatia’s Ministry of Culture Register of Cultural Property under the number Z–0718.
The earliest history of the chapel is known through the writings of Ivan Kukuljević-Sakcinski and Ivan Krstitelj Tkalčić. It is documented that the Cistercians arrived in Croatia in 1205, building a church and a monastery on an island in the Sava River, roughly level with the Stenjevec parish church. They were granted the land along the modern-day Dolje brook, including the Chapel of St. Martin, which they remodeled in the Romanesque style.
The earliest known depiction of the chapel appears on an 18th-century lithograph by Kaiser. In the 1898 chronicle of the Stenjevec parish, parish priest Ljudevit Ivančan described and illustrated the old chapel and its immediate surroundings based on historical sources and the accounts of parishioners. The appearance of the chapel prior to its 1900 renovation is also documented in several postcard photographs from that era.
Karst topography, including caves, can be found in certain areas of Medvednica Mountain. According to records by Dragutin Hirc from the late 19th century, a large cave once sat next to the Chapel of St. Martin, which gradually vanished due to stone quarrying in the nearby quarry. The chapel itself would likely have been demolished had priest Ivančan not recognized its historical value and intervened to secure its preservation and restoration. He commissioned the architect Hector pl. Eckhel, who had arrived in Zagreb in 1881 to work on the restoration of the cathedral. Eckhel, an accomplished draftsman, presented his architectural project in watercolor, ultimately restoring the chapel in a Neo-Gothic style. Notably, the chapel did not suffer significant damage during the Great Zagreb Earthquake of 1880.
Since the beginning of the 20th century, the landscape surrounding the chapel has undergone the most significant changes. The approach to the chapel was shifted toward the brook, and the hillside slope was leveled. During World War II, military barracks and an infirmary were built on the site, though they were later demolished. The terrain was subsequently lowered even further and leveled to accommodate the construction of a tennis center's sports grounds.
While the chapel underwent minor alterations in the early 20th century, a comprehensive restoration did not begin until 1994. This project followed the conservation guidelines of the Zagreb Institute for the Protection of Cultural and Natural Monuments, led by architect Mladen Perušić. The team analyzed Eckhel’s original restoration plans alongside the actual structure from 1900. The perimeter and gable stone walls were raised and reinforced with brick, a new roof structure was installed, and a stone portal and a rose window were integrated into the western facade. A Neo-Gothic stained-glass window depicting Saint Martin the Hermit was set into the southern wall of the nave. The building successfully retains both its Romanesque and Gothic details, including a Romanesque window on the southern wall of the sanctuary and a window niche on the western wall. During inspections, a late 17th-century bell was discovered and placed back into the small bell tower.
The exterior work was completed in 1999, followed by the interior restoration in 2008. The chapel sustained no severe damage during the earthquakes a few years ago.
Today, new restoration work is needed. Several cracks have appeared in the plaster on the facades around the openings and in the interior—specifically on the triumphal arch, the vault of the sanctuary, and the northern wall. Moisture is also present because the chapel was constructed directly on the rock face, indicating a need to inspect the drainage system.
Saint Martin and Podsused
In today's fast-paced, modern world, filled with technological advancements, people increasingly seek alternative ways to spend their leisure time. Many look back at old ways of life with nostalgia—evidenced by the growing popularity of ethnographic collections, traditional houses, and museums—and embark on long walking or cycling routes to find solitude and spiritual renewal, much like the famous Camino de Santiago paths.
Podsused was once a favorite excursion site for the citizens of Zagreb. Sedge (sitina) grew along the banks of the Sava River, which young shepherds used to weave into small baskets while tending livestock in the pastures. They would later sell these handmade baskets to excursionists at the Samoborček train station. Beyond its historical narratives—stretching from the ancient Pannonian Sea and the "Zagreb Whale" fossil to the ancient Romans, the old town of Susedgrad, the Peasant Revolt, and later traditions centered around the local public baths, quarries, and cement factory—Podsused holds a hidden gem: the Chapel of Saint Martin.
Adjacent to the chapel are the remains of a semi-cave where locals traditionally believe Saint Martin once lived. According to ethnologists, however, it is more plausible that centuries after Saint Martin the Bishop, a hermit lived there who was so exceptionally kind and generous that locals came to call him "Saint Martin." He shared whatever he had with the poor and healed people using medicinal water from the nearby thermal springs (Sutinska Vrela and the local brook). The chapel was erected in his honor. Since ancient times, the residents of Podsused have chosen this exact spot as the starting point for their walking pilgrimages to Marija Bistrica.
For many years, on the Sunday closest to St. Martin’s Day (November 11), a traditional procession has been organized from the Parish Church of St. John Bosco through the streets and squares of Podsused up to the St. Martin Chapel. Members of various local organizations—including Hrvatska Žena (Croatian Woman), Caritas, men's and women's prayer groups, and the local folklore ensemble (KUD)—participate in the procession, carrying the statue of St. Martin, which is normally housed on the chapel's altar. The procession is occasionally accompanied by a brass band.
Following the procession, a festive Mass is held outside the chapel (or inside the sports hall, depending on the weather). The event draws the entire Salesian community of Podsused, including priests, altar servers, assistants, pre-novices, the church choir, lectors, and youth animators, alongside visiting Salesians, representatives from other parishes, and various guests. After the Mass, the dedicated members of Hrvatska Žena treat everyone to homemade cakes and local wine.
A similar tradition has been celebrated for many years in Dugo Selo during July to mark "Summer Martin" and the anniversary of joining the St. Martin's Route. Local winemakers receive awards and recognition, and some even feature the Footstep of St. Martin on their wine bottle labels. Reflecting the long Templar tradition of Martin Breg, the event offers "Templar appetizers" and shield-shaped cookies.
Generally, Saint Martin’s croissants (Martinske kiflice) are considered a particular local delicacy.
Similarly, the village of Žrnovo near the historic town of Korčula, famous for its Makarunada pasta festival, is equally proud of its beautiful Church of St. Martin and its themed routes, which are drawing growing interest from tourists.
In Kotišina, situated above Makarska and also a part of the St. Martin's Route, visitors can explore a beautiful botanical garden and an interpretation center, though foot traffic is somewhat lighter there. This is largely because marketing efforts heavily favor the nearby Biokovo Skywalk attraction.
Conversely, the parish of Beli Manastir stands out as an exceptionally positive example of integration into the St. Martin’s Route. Even before officially joining, Beli Manastir had an active association called the Friends of St. Martin. After joining the route and being marked with the Footstep, a local religious education teacher and a group of children received an international monetary award for outstanding humanitarian work (Prix du Partage). Furthermore, the organization successfully hired a full-time employee to manage their activities.
Fifteen years ago, as part of the inaugural Podsused Festivities in 2009, a comprehensive monograph titled Podsused – Religious Life and Tradition; Cultural-Historical, Artistic, and Natural Heritage was published. Published by the Parish of St. John Bosco and edited by Don Tunjo Blažević, Ivana Haničar Buljan, Irena Kraševac, and Marija Šunjić, this publication made Podsused the only Zagreb neighborhood to possess its own dedicated monograph. That same year, the Podsused Educational Trail (Eko 2000) was established.
Today, this western gateway to Zagreb boasts an excellent culinary offer, local producers of drinks, sweets, and handicrafts, beautiful nature, mineral springs, and protected species. Above all, it is defined by its welcoming residents, who are actively involved in humanitarian associations, prayer groups, scouts, mountaineers, sports clubs, and the folklore ensemble KUD Klas.
By integrating Podsused into the St. Martin Cultural Route and marking the Chapel of Saint Martin with the official Footstep, the local community can unlock development opportunities that are achievable through long-term planning, investment, and continuous public education. This embodies the foundational premise of the entire project: civic sharing (partage citoyen) of common goods, which includes promoting knowledge and education to achieve a better quality of life, fostering community unity, and encouraging a deep sense of value and responsibility toward our shared heritage and exceptional natural environment.
Bibliography:
https://hrcak.srce.hr/file/455558 - AKM kulturne rute, Antonija Zaradija Kiš
https://susedgradskenovine.wordpress.com/2020/05/03/podsused-graditeljska-bastina-19-i-20-stoljeca/
https://hkm.hr/vijesti/domovina/znate-li-sto-je-stopa-sv-martina/
https://radio.hrt.hr/radio-sljeme/vijesti/dani-europske-bastine-ruta-sv-martina-11401357 https://tzds.hr/novosti/templarski-dani-na-martin-bregu
https://pdfcoffee.com/leksikon-ikonografije-liturgike-i-simbolike-zapadnog-kranstva-pdf-free.html
Projekt obnove krova, pročelja i drenaže kapele sv. Martina, Podsused - Ivana Haničar Buljan, Mladen Perušić, Mirta Krizman, Zagreb 2024.
‘Podsused – vjerski život i tradicija, kulturno-povijesna, umjetnička i prirodna baština’ ur: don Tunjo Blažević, Ivana Haničar Buljan, Irena Kraševac, Marija Šunjić, župa sv. Ivana Bosca, Podsused 2009.
'Putovima Europske nematerijalne baštine u 21. stoljeću: Sv. Martin, simbol dijeljenja', ur: Antonija Zaradija Kiš i Ines Sabotić, Zagreb 2016.
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